What Sunscreens Work and Why So you’re convinced you don’t want to play the frying game. But to choose the sun protection product that’s best for you, you need to know just what’s out there. So here’s a rundown of your sun-shield options and how they work.
absorb sunlight. PABA (short for para-aminobenzoic acid), once the most common chemical sunscreen, fell out of favor as increasing numbers of people using it experienced skin irritation and rashes. Although PABA’s still being used (it’s a good chemical sunscreen), most sunscreens now contain padimate-O, cinnamates and salicylates, which are less likely to irritate your skin. Unfortunately, most chemical sunscreens still absorb only UVB light, allowing UVA to penetrate your skin. In fact, that SPF number on your bottle of sunscreen refers only to its UVB protection. But that’s changing. Now that dermatologists consider UVA a threat, a few sunscreens have added ingredients like oxybenzone or other benzophenones – which absorb some UVA – to their UVB-screening formulas. So far, the chemical sunscreen that provides substantial protection against both UVA and UVB is Shade UVAGUARD, formulated with the best UVA zapper to date – Parsol 1789, or avobenzone. What may not work: synthetic melanin. Some cosmetics companies have added it to their sunscreens to simulate the protection offered by the melanin naturally present in heavily pigmented skin. This artificial pigment appears to have limited, if any, value, however, since melanin is only a stopgap measure to protect skin from burning: Synthetic melanin can’t prevent sun damage. In any case, there’s no scientific evidence that smearing on melanin works. Many of these products contain chemical sunscreens, which may be providing the real sun protection. Physical-barrier sunscreens. Remember how your grandmother used to bundle up at the beach – hat, sunglasses, umbrella, the works? You might think of these products as your own invisible sun umbrella. Physical-barrier sunscreens act as shields, screening out both UVB and UVA. And because physical-barrier products work immediately, you can step into the sun right after you slather them on. The most effective physical-barrier ingredient is zinc oxide, the gunky white paste made famous by generations of lifeguards. Its appearance is no longer a drawback, however. Zinc oxide can now be micronized, or reduced to virtually invisible particles. Of course, if you’re the flamboyant type, you can wear brightly colored zinc oxide, available in drugstores, in shades like hot pink and yellow. Another physical barrier, titanium dioxide, doesn’t screen out as much UVA as its more powerful cousin zinc oxide. Many sun protection products combine titanium dioxide, which is also micronized, with zinc oxide to provide more protection than titanium dioxide alone. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are also found in products containing chemical sunscreens. But now you can find completely chemical-free physical-barrier formulas more to your liking, especially if you have sensitive skin: They don’t sting and burn the way chemical formulas can. For true chemical-free sunning, try Neutrogena Chemical-Free Sunblocker SPF 17 or Johnson & Johnson’s Sundown Sport Sunblock. (Estee Lauder, Revlon and Chanel also make chemical- free blocks.) And one product – Eutra Block – is advertised as being chemical -, fragrance – and alcohol-free. Whichever sun protection you choose, however, read a sunscreen’s label carefully to make sure you know whether you’re buying sunscreen or sunblock. While one company may offer a dozen different sun products, the packaging can look the same. |
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